Research Projects

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    European Continental Shelf Dynamics

    • Shelf dynamics, tides and transport
    • Wave-current interactions and impact on vertical mixing


    Caption: SST evolution at 1.5km resolution for the European Continental Shelf Model AMM15 (Zoom)

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    Impact of wave whitecapping on landfalling cyclones

    • Fully-coupled atmosphere-ocean-waves system
    • Wave dissipation due to presence of continental shelf<\li>
    • Negative feedbacks on TC development


    Caption: Time evolution of Turbulent Kinetic Energy over the shelf in presence of waves


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    Figure: Fully-coupled atmosphere-ocean-waves system. Evolution of the SST (left), 10m winds (centre) and wave height (right) for an idealized bathymetry. Dashed line represents the edge of the continental shelf while the plain line represents the coast. See Bruneau et al. (2018, Scientific Reports).

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    Caspian Sea Dynamics

    • Development of a fully-coupled atmosphere-ocean-wave model (via COAWST)
    • Analysis of wave climate and extreme waves
    • Impact of waves on upper-ocean mixing


    Caption: SST evolution at 2km resolution of the Southern Caspian Sea

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    Tropical and Transitioning Cyclones

    • Unstructured depth-averaged hydrodynamic and spectral wave models
    • Impact of transitioning wind fields on surge and wave representation
    • Historical and idealized track set ensembles
    • Tide / surge interactions


    Caption: example of storm surge evolution over South Japan.


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    Figure: Surge differences between a traditional tropical cyclone wind profile formulation and a wind profile model allowing maximum winds on the left-hand-side of the moving track (as it might be exhibited during the transitioning phase) for an ensemble of around 200 historical tracks.

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    Storm surge associated to Xynthia storm (Feb. 2010)

    • Development of a regional model (SELFE / WW3) to estimate the storm surge
    • Analysis of the influence of atmospheric forcing, ocean rugosity, wave ages and resonnance across the continental shelf


    Caption: Pressure evolution for the East Atlantic Ocean illustrating the track of the Xynthia storm in February 2010. The pressure data comes from a blend of the NCEP/NCAR GFS with the high resolution MeteoFrance Aladin data (for the Bay of Biscay). The pressure map is superimposed with a GoogleEarth view.


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    Figure: Left, storm surge observations at different location in the Bay of Biscay. Right, modeled storm surge maximum footprint and time serie comparisons with observations for the three stations where the storm surge was the largest. Presence of 6h oscillations after landfall induced by the phenomenon of resonnance when the storm crosses the continental shelf.

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    Southern Polar Ocean

    • Processing and maintenance of the large dataset to force ocean models and of CMIP5 data for the BAS
    • Development of tools for data visualization and Optimization of models / codes
    • Participation in scientific studies on ice melting, circumpolar circulation, water mass characteristics and mixed layer depth


    Caption: Sea ice concentration and velocities around Antarctica

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    Lagoon and Tidal Inlet Morphodynamics

    • Morphodynamics of mixed-energy (tide, waves) coastal environments (lagoons, inlets, estuaries, ...)
    • Analysis of the physical processes controlling these coastal environments
    • Numerical modeling of waves, tides, nearshore circulations and morphological changes


    Caption: Morphodynamic evolution of Obidos lagoon from April 2002 to August 2002


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    Figure: Top: Panoramic view of the Óbidos lagoon; bottom: 5month morphodynamic evolution (from April 2002 to August 2002) of the Óbidos inlet obtained with MORSYS2D compared to a aerial shot.

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    Rip Current Dynamics

    • Modelling of wave propagation, wave-induced currents and wave/current interaction in the surf zone
    • Analysis of the vortical motions and the generation of wave-driven circulations
    • Field experiments and data analysis (Biscarrosse and Truc Vert, Perranporth Beachs)


    Caption: Drifter measurements during the Biscarrosse field trip (2007)


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    Figure: Left: Rythmic Transverse Bar and Rip (TBR) morphologies observed on the French Aquitanian Coast (during the PNEC 2001 field experiment); top right: Averaged rip current velocities measured during the Biscarrosse 2007 field experiment with the presence of Very Low Frequency pulsations; center: topographically-controlled wave-driven circulations; bottom: photography of the instrumented TBR system at Biscarrosse Beach (2007).

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    SandBar Morphodynamics

    • Generation of rythmic sandbars as crescentic bars or bar and rip morphologies (self-organisation)
    • Analysis of characteristics as wavelengths, shapes, ...
    • Morphological coupling between the different sandbars of multiple-barred environments


    Caption: Formation and development of rythmic crescentic patterns (starting from an uniform alongshore bar)


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    Figure: Development of rythmic crescentic patterns from a perturbated uniform alongshore bars at 3 different instant to underline processus of self-organisation. Right panels shows bar and rips classification proposed by Wright and Short (1984).


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    Figure: Aerial view of a double sandbar system on the French Aquitanian Coast (top); example of morphological coupling between the inner and the outer bars (bottom).

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    3D Modeling of wave-induced currents and mophodynamics

    • Implementation of the 3D wave theories in the SELFE model
    • Wave-induced currents, wave / current interaction, wave-induced turbulence
    • Application to different test cases and to the Óbidos Lagoon (Portugal)


    Caption: Morphodynamic evolution for a breakwater case after 100 days (3D approach). Photo represents an aerial via at Valras Beach in France


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    Figure: Application of the model to a 2DV laboratory case (Grasso et al., 2009). From top to bottom, the significant wave height (Hs), set-up, cross-shore observed vs modeled velocities at 6cm from the bottom, the bathymetry, the Hs + breaking wave rate and the modeled vertical cross-shore velocities. Black plain line represents the model results and blue dots the observations.